Wilderness Workouts

I'm slowly realizing that I actually stink at writing a blog. Mainly because I never update it and by the time I find some time and energy to write it there's so much to tell that I feel it will take forever. Well, my New Year's resolution is to do a better job on this thing so those people who I don't talk to on the phone (don't feel left out...I don't really talk to anyone on the phone because I don't have service most of the time and I really don't like talking on the phone) or write long emails to (don't feel left out of that one either because it only seems to happen if I dream something crazy about someone and need to tell about the dream or if I'm trying to retrieve some left items or acquire some new ones OR if people are planning on visiting, which you are all more than welcome)

So, here is what I wrote sometime at the beginning of November and never quite finished...

I spend my mornings staring out the breakfast window at the Teton Range. During my days I wander through the Gros Ventre mountains behind my cabin, sit by the creek and listen to the water flow as it winds it's way to the Snake River and watch the buffalo and moose roam the sage flats. At night the moon lights the way to my cabin door and if there is not a moon the sky seems filled with more stars than I ever imagined existed. I realize that I could not have chosen a more perfect place to study place-based education. Every day the environment around me inspires me, overwhelms me and affects my daily activities.


As I reflect on the steps that brought me here I recognize that my surroundings have impacted my moods, my activities, and my decisions throughout my life. From a childhood roaming the woods behind my house, high school days spent on the water rowing, camping in the woods, and having bonfires down by the river to college days watching the sun rise over the Chester River as the geese flew in formation overhead to hikes above the freeways and in the canyons of LA to wanders along the Potomac River I have continually experienced the environment around me. However, I think the days of looking carefully at the world around has diminished. Now that I'm immersed in nature daily I am experiencing a connection I haven't felt since I was that child wandering the woods. I find myself not just admiring pretty views and hiking and climbing to get a workout but I am actually getting back into nature, getting dirty, exploring and reconnecting not only to the Earth but also to the wonder that I held as a child. I don't just look at the creek, I get in it and peek into beaver lodges. I collect insects and try to identify them. I smell flowers, I pick up crickets and stare into their eyes, I pause to look at rock formations and try to figure out how they got that way. I can recognize bird calls and I know what time of night the bison will most likely be crossing the road.

As much as I like the grasses and berries that grow right outside my cabin door, I am most intrigued by the wildlife that roams the mountains, conifer and aspen forests and sage flats of the Teton Valley. Daily my life is impacted by the wildlife that surrounds me. I'd like to introduce you to a few of the animals who share my home.

UNGULUTE INTERRUPTIONS


First, there are the bison (American buffalo). They are the biggest animal around and they'll stick around throughout the winter since they are able to use their heads like shovels to clear the snow from their path. They munch on the grasses that grow in the sage flats but occasionally they'll wander through the forests. As I walk through the woods I'll find bits of bison hair stuck in the bark of a tree. Apparently a bison decided that the tree was the perfect place to give himself a back rub. Right now the bison are very prevalent on Ditch Creek Rd. which is about a mile or so stretch of road and is our way in and out of Teton Science Schools. I've had a few runs and bike rides interrupted because the bison were roaming on or near the road. Bison can actually jump 6 feet from a standing position and they really don't like bikes. So, if you are riding your bike along and see a bison herd crossing the road you have two choices, stop and let the bison pass or wait for a car to come along and ride your bike right next to it. I still like watching the bison but I'm definitely to the point that the bison are also a little bit annoying when I'm trying to get to/from somewhere.

The pronghorn (antelope) and the deer also like to stare at me while I'm riding my bike. I went on a bike ride one day from campus down the road towards the national forest service roads. As I whizzed past the bison they kept their heads down and ignored me but as soon as the mule deer saw me they turned their heads and stared. I had the same reaction from the pronghorn and the white-tailed deer. They looked at me, waiting to see what I would do and as I simply rode past them their heads turned to watch me pass. I loved it! What a great way to see these beautiful animals! Just a little bit about the pronghorn, which is my favorite. Also known as an antelope, they are the fastest animal living here. They can run 75 miles per hour. No other animal can even come close to catching the pronghorn. They can run so fast because a very long time ago cheetahs used to roam North America and were a predator of the pronghorn. Now, the pronghorn uses its long legs and quickness to migrate south for the winter. Since their legs are not adapted to live in deep snow they head south, 150 miles, through the Green River Valley to live near Pinedale, Wyoming, until the snow melts.

MOOSE COMMUNICATION
So, one day I was walking down the road in front of our dining lodge. I heard a grunt behind and saw a large bull moose walking down the road right behind me. Despite looking like a pretty cool guy I decided the moose probably didn't want to talk to me. I headed into the Main Lodge and watched through the window as he munched on some willows. I guessed this was the same guy who had been wandering around our grad circle of cabins a few days before and perhaps he was connected to the cow moose and calf that I had seen roaming around in the sage flats in front of the school. I think it's kind of funny that the moose really seem to like my friend Maggie. One of the first nights we were here she ran into one as she was heading back to her cabin. The scary part was that Maggie didn't have a headlamp with her and the moose kind of came out of the dark. I guess he just grunted at her, maybe she grunted back, and then she went on her way. Moose like to eat willow, bitterbrush (I think they are the only animal that eats bitterbrush), and green grasses. As I look around campus at the willow bushes I can see our local moose has been feasting away. Moose can also swim, since they also eat aquatic vegetation, and they have really long legs for walking around in the deep snow. Maybe, one day, you too will get to reenact a scene from Northern Exposure and walk down the road with a moose.

BUGLES IN THE NIGHT
In the early to mid-fall we take the students who come to Teton Science Schools further into the park to hear the elk bugle. The last time I took students out there they were so quiet we didn't just hear the elk bugle we also heard the "clackety-clack" or elk fighting with their antlers. The elk bugle and fight during mating season. The bulk of the bull elk will not get to mate but the strongest and best buglers will end up mating. Now, mating season is over and the elk are the easiest ungulate to track down. The elk cannot find food in the deep snow so they migrate for the winter. Most of the elk around here migrate to the Elk Refuge. The Refuge is a bit strange because not only are the elk fed by humans in the refuge but it is also possible to hunt the elk in the northern end of the refuge. It makes me think that "refuge" might not be the right word to describe the wintering grounds of the elk around here.

HIKING WITH BEARS
Going for a hike means being on the lookout for bears. All of those brave enough to wander into the depths of the forest do so armed with bear spray and trained to use it. However, one doesn't have to wander too far to find a bear. A rustling in the bushes is usually a good sign that a bear might be nearby and bear scat (usually filled with berries) is an even better indication to be on the lookout, especially when the bear scat is on the porch of the cook's cabin. I have been lucky enough to see two bears since I have been here. Both of them were black bears and both were eating when I saw them. The first was a young black bear spotted gnawing on a bison carcass near the creek that runs through our campus. I was with a group of students and though we were tempted to get out our cameras and start taking pictures we slowly backed away and kept a close eye on that bear.

My second bear sighting was a fun one. Half of our graduate class was at the Murie Ranch (I'll have to tell more about this beautiful and inspiring place in another post) listening to friends give a talk about the book Wapiti Wilderness. As we hiked towards the river we heard a rustling in the bushes and we turned to see a black bear seated upon a bush munching on some berries. We abandoned our hike to the river and instead moved to a clearing where we could listen to the Wapiti Wilderness presentation AND spy on the bear through binoculars at the same time. I could have watched that bear struggling to reach berries all day. I think he even fell a couple of times.

There isn't too much bear worry right now. It's winter and the bears have loaded up on food and are resting for the winter. I say "resting" rather than "hibernating" because most scientists don't consider what bears do in winter true hibernation. Their heart rates equal that of sleeping whereas hibernating animals have extremely low heart rates, much lower than sleeping heart rates. Also, female bears are active enough in winter to give birth. Whatever the case hiking can now be done without bear spray as long as you don't plan on wandering into a bear den.

LOOK CLOSER
There are many more animals to be found around the area and some are very hard to spot. I have discovered some while walking, running, hiking and climbing. The forest is filled with squirrels, chipmunks and snowshoe hares. My latest research project was tracking animals in the snow and we saw signs of squirrels everywhere. Even when you can't see their tracks you can hear them chattering away in the trees. Squirrels and chipmunks will live in a subnivean (under the snow) environment for the winter where they will be warm and cozy.

Some of the insects around here are amazing. I had to throw in this picture of a caterpillar that I found while walking along Ditch Creek Rd. We looked him up online and found out he will turn into a moth. I spent one day in the creek researching the macroinvertebrates that live there. I pulled out mayflies, caddis flies, weird worms, tiny red spiders and other insects that indicate the stream that runs through our campus is a healthy one. I also had to put in a picture of a Mormon cricket that I found while hiking. There are a lot of crickets around here. In the fall our graduate circle and one of our climbing spots (Hoback Shield) were filled with crickets flying around.


Well, I think that's quite enough about the animals around here for now. Winter is slowly descending upon us and it's time for me to head to do some schoolwork so I can get in some cross-country skiing later today. In the spring, when it is rumored that I have to learn bird calls, I'll discuss the birds of the area. For now, I've given you a bit of the natural history of this place and hopefully encouraged you to come and visit some of these characters up close. Consider this education part of your holiday gift from me!

Next up...something a bit more exciting...Winter and Adventures out of the Valley. The times I've left have been few but when I leave something fun and a little crazy always happens.

For now...Happy HOLIDAYS!!! Pray for snow, we sure could use some.